9^th March 2006 Thursday I was awaken by the sudden chill, looked over my shoulder and noticed that there were no woods left burning in the fireplace. I contemplated to burn more woods due to the fact that I felt so sluggish at 0030. However, the iciness won over me and I strained myself to add more woods to trigger the fire. By the time the fire started, Eng was already wide-awake by the noise. He was caring and gentlemen enough to let me sleep in his sleeping bag at his corner, which was supposedly warmer. I had to wear thermal, wool, jumper, the clothing provided by Henrik, winter jacket, thermal socks and tucked into 2 sleeping bags in order to keep myself warm and subsequently able to sleep soundly (Not very proud of it) Comparatively, Eng just wore a yellow jumper and trousers to sleep. He had the urge to visit the P area (designated outdoor spot as men’s toilet) but resolute to hold as long as he can due to the coldness and darkness outdoor. 

fire place

Eng’s desire to fulfil a good sleep just couldn’t ensue due to the increased coldness and urge to visit the P area. His feet were freezing although he was also tucked into 2 sleeping bags. The time was 0300 and he decided to answer natures call. While watering the local plant life overlooking Torne River under the clear sky, he witnessed some strange poignant shadows and sounds of cracking ice as well as animals’ foot steps echoed in the dusk with little light from the reflection of snow. It was definitely not an experience by choice. He then returned to the hut to lit more fire before retiring for the third time that night. He managed to slumber an hour later by burying his head in the sleeping bag as it was just too cold and wondered how the guests in the Ice Hotel could sleep comfortably in sub zero.

lower than freezer’s temp?

The next time the fire was gone, it was 0630, sun had risen and the bright ray was penetrating through the window in our hut. Eng couldn’t consider a better reason to sleep and thus decided to get out of bed and wear more clothing. At the same time, I woke up and we both freshened up and prepared some hot coffee to drink with cinnamon ginger biscuits, Pringles and German rice biscuits. It was minus 25 but we still took a stroll by the frozen lake. We could hear the resonance of cracking ice. Our growling tummies alerted us that it should be breakfast time. Bread, cheese, salami, muesli, yogurt, apple jam, marmalade and hot chocolate which both happened to be my favourites were readily served for us in the main cabin. 

After breakfast @ 0900, we walked leisurely down the river bank. The day scenery was breathtaking; large pieces of frozen ice were floating and spectacular forms of pebble liked ice at the edge of a multilayered snow; we enjoyed the tranquillity of the surroundings; just like heaven. We decided to turn back after the long adventurous wander and as Eng was stretching his neck, he caught sight of 5 wild animals – reindeers (this time with horns) and some white reindeers about 800 metres away.

Approximately 1100, Eng was very eager to experience ice-fishing but prior to that, the ice needs to be checked. Alexander, Henrik’s son, drove his Yamaha snowmobile to the middle of the frozen lake to corroborate that it was suitable to fish but encountered some problems with his vehicle later on. Unfortunately, there was too much water on the surface of the ice, which could be unpleasant for the activity. Apparently, the previous night was too cold which caused more ice to be frozen and subsequently increased the water pressure to overflow to the surface of the adjoining ice (a metre in thickness). Eng was no doubt disappointed but that created an excuse to return to do some ice fishing in the future. Since we had some free time before our departure, we treated ourselves to one last round of “snow gliding” on mattresses. Eng resurfaced some patches so that we wouldn’t bump into trees during the slide.

a snowflake on my glove

By 1230, we had to pack our belongings, as we need to clear the room for the next group of French and Chinese tourists. We ate one last luscious meal of smoked reindeer with macaroni. It was so mouth watering that we couldn’t resist from finishing the entire dish of meat. I was sitting beside Henrik at the dining table and he didn’t have the same food as us but he drank reindeer blood + vodka instead…..eeeuuuuuuu. I lied as after lunch, we had the final round of “snow gliding” but did it at the wrong slope and Henrik couldn’t drive his snowmobile up since he had to brake for us. All of us had to help him push the motor and he was obviously not too happy about it. Anyway, Eng paid him 2900 SKR and £40 tips to buy good food for the huskies.

click the picture for panorama, its 90kb

We waited till 1500 before walking round the lake for 15 minutes to reach the huskies’ waiting area. 13 huskies were competing for attention when they saw us. Henrik arrived and selected 3 huskies to be seconded to their cages while the rest were equally divided and assigned to 2 sledges. The ones allocated to a Hungarian couple in the other sled had 2 leaders.
As usual, the huskies were eager to run. The Hungarian’s huskies were a bit slow and Henrik had to console the leaders by chanting some dog language and they immediately became alert again. I took over the driver’s position from Eng at half journey. I was thrilled but nervous. During the run, the leader slowed down to answer nature call (they do this all the time) and I couldn’t step the brake on time and caused the sled to jolt the huskies to the side of the path. The second husky’s harness was tangled and Eng spent 2 minutes trying to readjust the harness while Henrik appeared calm and patient. I released the position to Eng 10 minutes later as I was emotionally tensed by driving the sled and the thought that I might unintentionally hurt any husky.

driver had to stand throughout and be prepared to step on the brake pedal

The remaining ride on narrow trails was bumpy and we were impressed with the huskies familiarity with the route that they could lead us back to the destined spot without Henrik in sight. We then helped Henrik unleashed each husky and direct them back into their cages. There was an ill husky with us in the car as he accidentally swallowed a harness belt that had caused stomach discomfort. Henrik shared some information with Eng and mentioned that over aggressive huskies will be exterminated whilst the respectable ones could be sold for 20000 SKR. Not exactly what he wanted to hear. He ultimately dropped us off at ICA for some food shopping before we adversely leave the paradise to board the train back to Stockholm. We will definitely miss the encounter and the huskies but as the same time vow not to dog sledge again as we felt pity for the huskies. Mixed feelings. Dog lover, you tell us!

to all the huskies in Kiruna, we will remember you!